Best rock climbing nuts and hexes reddit. size 3 & 6 if you have a full set of nuts.

Best rock climbing nuts and hexes reddit 3” for wedgeshaped nuts and 3. Obviously this resulted in carrying more equipment so was heartily encouraged by gear manufacturers. Jan 8, 2024 · In the late 1980s into the 1990s in UK climbing, there was a decisive move away from a mix of individually racked hexes of all sizes & medium nuts on cord towards using only larger hexes, plus nuts on wire (with quickdraws) due to ease of use. Also have a few micros of offsets & stopper/rock/nuts. Learn how to use nuts and hexes. When I started trad climbing, I couldn't afford the cams, so I led exclusively on nuts, hexes, and tricams for probably 40 of my first 50 pitches on gear. Aug 8, 2022 · A typical set of nuts, also called wires or chocks, consists of 10 to 12 pieces that start small—less than . Nuts=Stoppers Have a full set. I find the hexes and offsets tend to have the strongest placements and get placed more often but I definely still use the nuts a lot. 177 votes, 35 comments. Also, I love dmm alloy offsets and I think they're the best single piece of gear out there but they're not a replacement for regular nuts. Use the side of the nut tool and smack the hex as hard as you can the opposite way it went in. Just use the sideways long end of the nut tool and smack the hex as hard as you can from the wire or sling side like your hitting something with a hammer. The home of Climbing on reddit. An alpine climbing rack should be pretty small and light, you shouldn't have maybe more than around 5 cams and a set of nuts, so carrying a #4, #5, #6 even a #3 seems like a lot of weight and pretty big gear to carry for that type of climbing. Maybe. . 3M subscribers in the climbing community. They do also work in irregular/chossy/slimy cracks. Consider getting some second hand wires and maybe even (gasp!) hexes before getting cams. I also instruct my second how to easily remove them. Jun 21, 2022 · It's because hexes are best thought of (and most often used as) giant nuts (which can be used as cams in some situations), whereas tricams are best thought of as cams and used as such. Most alpine climbing you'd be doing shouldn't take more than a set of cams and a set of nuts unless you're doing big alpine rock routes like those in the Sierras. ETA: If you do get hexes, get the WC rockcentrics or DMM torque nuts. See full list on outdoorgearlab. A typical trad rack will contain 10-12 nuts and maybe one or two mid-size hexes. I set my Rockcentric hexes as hard as I can and they have never rattled loose during a climb. Tricams have a reputation for being fiddly and slow to place, thus people buy cams instead. Posted by u/deadphish1 - 9 votes and 35 comments They are pretty decent, but in my opinion not the best hex. Nov 23, 2016 · Hey Matt, if you are going up the learning curve in trad climbing, I highly recommend you buying hexes. Usually one or two hits and it rattles loose. com Nuts. Once placed you can set them fairly hard. I see a lot of climbers on Reddit suggesting just carrying offsets "because they work in all the same placements". 1. Don't let DMM's marketing fool you though that those four sizes replace six sizes of conventional hexes. A nut works best in tapering narrow- to medium-width cracks. Same thing when I did own the Torque Nuts before I sold them in favor of the Rockcentrics. To get the best possible placement, strive to maximize the surface area of the wedge that's in contact with the rock. if the rock type is suited to offsets have a set of theirs also. And yes we are scared of falling. So far as climbing and gear goes be wary of anyone that has a hard and fast rule about anything, because the answer to most questions about anything is "it depends". Double up 2-7. Certainly a good deal better than Black Diamond Hexcentrics, and far, far better than Metolius Ultralight Curved hexes. The Phoenix (13a) for example. 6. For unknown long climbs . Nut and Hexes Ranging in size from the thickness of a matchstick to the size of your clenched fist, nuts (also called chocks, wires or stoppers) and hexes are inexpensive pieces of trad protection. Feb 20, 2021 · In short, cams will go most places hexes will go (more quickly and easily), but hexes won't go a lot of places cams will. Because of their wedged shape, nuts are not well suited to parallel-sided cracks. But for the record; things harder than I'll ever climb were established with nuts and hexes. Still love the hexes for clanking up the old-school 5. Share gear, it's muuuuuuch cheaper this way too. Hexes clean as quickly as a nut that you need a nut tool to get out, often times quicker. For everyday cragging, you won't miss them. Once I started climbing on gear routes that physically challenged my climbing ability the rapid placement of a cam became welcome[1]. 25” wide—and go up to about 1. Hexes are lighter, cheaper, and scare the bears away. I don't believe it. Nuts and hexes (although I dislike hexes) are perfectly adequate and safe. It's designed to wedge into the narrowest part of that crack. if you can place a hex = elephant bomb proof! but the weight, take only what you expect to place size 3 & 6 if you have a full set of nuts. Good places to stand and place and fiddle with a hex are good places to break an ankle. I've recently started trad climbing as well and am using DMM nut set 3 (includes a set of nuts, offsets and hexes). People learn with nuts, thus hexes get bought as giant nuts. 5” for six-sided hexes. vdbduv usggi fjxchd ukgc vzsamqb aavoc bgul enl mrexxl hxlp